Defining “Fine”

“American’s, for the most part, don’t really care what they look like when they go out.” – Anonymous

Of course, that can be taken as an insult – or a compliment.

Does it mean American’s walk around as slipshods? No. Well, not exactly. Having lived overseas, and being exposed to parts of the world where style needs a capital S, American streets pale in comparison. Jeans, a t-shirt, track pants, a sweat shirt – these are the items that come to mind when picturing an American’s wardrobe. Not that these items are devoid of looking clean and neat; they just lack an infatuation with fashion. And that can be a good thing. You’re just going to the mall to hang out with friends…who needs to look like they’re going to be walking down the runway? Well, American’s, for the most part, don’t. European’s, overwhelmingly, do.

The European’s are known for their exquisite taste and high fashion since the days of the aristocracy. Ancient day dresses of fine cloths lavishly decorated with laces and embroidery have translated into today’s European haute couture. From designers like Gucci, Burberry, and Chanel, high end style still belongs to Europe. When Columbus sailed to the Americas, he left many things behind; one of them, no doubt, has been the fashion fetish. As much as America is caught up in consumerism, it lacks the omnipresent pressure of dressing to impress. Not to say that there is absolutely no pressure when it comes to image, but there seems to be no explicit rules on what is acceptable dress, what is necessary style. You wear what you want, for whomever you like; if it floats your boat, then it doesn’t matter who might be sinking in disgust.

In Europe, however, and those under its fashionable influence, there is an inherent de rigueur to appear tastefully-groomed at all times. Even in Saudi, where the abaya/burqa is supposed to curb the weight image has on reputation (but a country infused with the European fashion market) there is an ubiquitous need to get the look right, and be up-to-date on the latest styles. Having experienced that tacit pressure to “conform,” walking out on to the care-free streets of America I feel curiously out of place. Am I being too self-conscious about what I’m wearing, or am I missing something that has been lost in translating fashion per Europe to fashion per America?

Maybe I am. Every culture decides what they are going to emphasize, and American’s have mostly chosen to place comfort of person over style of dress. While Europeans continue to demand stylish outfits and up-to-date fashions when entering the public arena, America has okayed a less prescribed dress code. As demanding as it can get though, I continue to favor the European classicism over the American casualness. Yes, jeans and a t-shirt are comfortable, but because my dress mirrors my approach to things, my perfectionism does not let me get away with less than classy.

Wrapping it Right

The shape of our face usually dictates things like our hair cut, the glasses or sunglasses we choose, and so on. So what about Hijabs? As a prominent article on a Muslim woman’s head, it does help to coordinate the Hijab with the shape of the face. There are tons of ways that the Hijab can be tied, and the decision to do it a certain way has to do with the shape of the face, and the practicality or comfort-level that that particular style offers.

Cruising a few of the “Hijabee” Blogs, I came across these ‘Hijab Style Tips’ put together by Stylish Muslimah:

Lifting the Curtain on Hijab

“That dress looks like a curtain!”

If you’ve ever heard this critique of a dress, or something similar to it, then its literal Arabic translation would sound like: “That dress looks like a Hijab!” And in case that’s directed at a Muslim girl wearing a Hijab, that might not go so well.

The literal Arabic translation for the word Hijab is curtain or partition. Over the years, however, it has come to signify the head covering of a Muslim woman. The Quran, our Holy Book, does not mention the word Hijab – as a head covering – in its verses. Instead it refers to the head cloth as khimaar. As such, the Quran instructs women to “draw their khimaar over their bosoms” (24:31). Some take this to mean that, since there is no specific command to “cover” the head, such an act is not mandatory. However, most Islamic scholars have agreed that the word khimaar refers to a head covering, and therefore an explicit command mandating covering of the hair is not required.

In the verse stated above, it is interesting to note that it calls out to women to draw their head covering over their bosoms. This implies that women in pre-Islamic periods were already in the habit of keeping their head covered. However, it was customarily tied behind their neck, thus exposing the neck and chest. The Quranic revelation, therefore, merely refers to the head scarf, calling for a slight alteration of its traditional use: that is, to draw it over their bosoms.

This perfection of a previous practice is very characteristic of the Islamic teachings. Islam is not, characteristically, a “new” religion. It simply advances and completes the teachings of the Prophets that came before Muhammad, such as Noah, Abraham, Moses, and Jesus. Many of the previous beliefs, especially Judeo-Christian, have teachings and practices that are very similar to the Islamic teachings; in this case, the act of covering a woman’s head was (and is) something familiar to both practicing Jews and Christians. The Quran, then, as mentioned above, perfects that practice by advising women to draw their head cloths over their necks and upper chest.

Of course, not all Islamic teachings are an expansion on old tradition. However, as the Quran itself stresses, most of its teachings are a perfection of all that came before it – something most people are unaware of.

Black is Beautiful

When people, Muslim or not, find out about my tenure in Saudi Arabia, they almost never fail to ask if women were required to wear the abaya (aka the burqa); my answer is, proudly, yes.

Proud? Yes.

Although the abaya is a cultural thing, it stemmed from the requirements of an Islamic dress code: loose, modest, and subdued. Almost all of the neighboring Muslim countries have some form of the abaya that the women wear. From Iran to Egypt, the long overcoat that constitutes the burqa, colors its wearers with the flavor of their culture; the mesh veil in muted colors dots the alleys of Afghanistan, with the tailored cuts of stark blue, purple, and green overcoats gracing the streets of Jordan. Saudi Arabia’s signature happens to be black; the black abaya. It is merely their interpretation of a loose, modest, and subdued covering.

The black abaya becomes a sort of uniform over there, and it ushers the virtues of a standardized costume into society. Women, regardless of class, race, or religion, are requested to enter the public in the abaya. Shopping centers and other public arenas are void of scantily clad citizens (men are required to keep modestly dressed as well), ensuring the sanctity of the community. At the workplace, women become equals with men as they are judged on their work and contribution and not their looks and attire. The abaya also deters debate on what constitutes Hijab. The grayness is, in Saudi, made black and white…literally.

In another sense, the public and private worlds of Saudi citizens are separated very clearly. Because each of our ideas about what is acceptable behavior differs, the abaya covers everyone in a homogeneity that reminds its constituents that we belong to a community. And our responsibility to the community is our act of self-control, our respect for the others whom we share our living space with. What is done in private is your choice; you choose the activity, the behavior, the dress code, and all of that which will attract similar crowds, without infringing on your neighbors sensitivities. It works the same with a school uniform. The uniform is there to protect everyone, in a place where academia should not be bothered with the petty differences of dress and its associated individual dispositions.

Of course, as someone who puts high emphasis on my appearance, the abaya seems a drab obligation. Black? Long? Loose? How does the creative fashionista survive?

After witnessing the myriads of abaya stores and the even greater selection of styles that these stores carry, few would argue that Saudi women are deprived of panache. Choosing an abaya is an almost dizzying affair; honestly, no two are the same. And given the importance of this robe, purchasing an abaya is a most serious affair. Hours are spent browsing the rows of black, looking for the garment that is to become your second skin. In the end, women are relieved of a much greater hassle: a different outfit for everyday. The abaya, thrown over anything and everything, becomes an easy and elegant outlet for feminine haute couture.

Yes, I miss the abaya. Having the ‘freedom’ to dress the way one pleases is not as liberating as many may think. Going out becomes a deliberate effort; my outfit must be planned to look presentable, pleasant, and modest. There is no long, loose, and elegant overcoat I can carelessly cast over myself, for an effortless confidence, a comfortable anonymity. I must conform to society, the way those in Saudi must conform to that society. Only, this time it involves a lot more color.

A Desperate Response to the Economy

Doing some research on the recent status of the fashion industry, I found the usual recession lingo that’s been describing everything from Wall Street to Main Street: “fashion companies…fall into credit problems,” “shoppers hunt for discount prices,” with a “downturn in the frequency of trips made to luxury stores.” Nothing new; the fashion industry is on the same bandwagon with the rest of the economy, headed for dreary prospects. And of course, in such times there is always an emphasis on spending less, getting more for your money, and other such attempts at looking like the elite for less. Good Morning America did a clip on getting the upper crest Gossip Girl look for next to nothing. I say, the last thing we should be doing is imitating those who are oblivious to the economic stress we’re dealing with right now. Be original, be creative. Don’t be desperate.

I have to admit that I can be a little extravagant at times, and the rising prices don’t help my coveting the $80 bag, when I should really be saving up for more important things, like textbooks. I’d love to be able to spend $100 on a pair of shoes, sans souci, but I can’t – or shouldn’t. So, are the $15 look-a-likes what I should be aiming for now? Do I satisfy my fashion-bug with bargain imitations? It sounds tempting, but I no matter what they say, look-a-likes just don’t look alike. If the key is to spend less, then stick with the clothing that suits your style and your status. Attempting a class climb without spending the money isn’t going to work.

And this is where the ‘be original and creative’ part comes in. Economic stress doesn’t mean don’t look nice, it just means be smart. Rather than stocking up on cheap lookalikes, buy smart: Clothes that are versatile in color, material, and wear are on the rise. Even Michelle Obama recycles her looks, throwing a cardigan over a suit for a new look, or using the same belt on different outfits for creative alternatives.

And be yourself. Recession or no recession, if you can’t afford to look like the real Eva Langoria, then don’t. If Target is your one-stop-shop, then that’s all you need to look your best.

Getting in on the basics

Here are links to a 3-part video on what it means to wear Hijab. It was originally put out by The Washington Post, but I found it on the We Love Hijab blog. The videos are really brief – about 4 minutes long; the first two parts give a good insight into the concept of Hijab, and the third video has a cute sneak peek into how Muslim girls modify Western clothes for a whole new, covered outfit.

(I am sorry that the actual videos couldn’t be uploaded here; I have to work on getting that figured out, but for now, just click on the hyperlinks to be taken to the blog I found them on.)

Video #1: What is Hijab?

Video #2: The Rules & Regulations of Muslim Fashion

Video #3: A Muslim Woman’s Closet: Style Solutions

Kavakci Couture

Updated: Added photograph credits.

This week I had the privilege of talking to a budding Muslim fashion designer. I had attended her clothes line debut, “Covered In Style,” in November, and was thoroughly impressed. “I aim for practicality and elegance. I want an outfit that fits the requirements of Islam and gives a positive image of the Muslim woman, whether it is at the job, working out, or just a casual outfit,” Elif Kavakci explains.

Born in Turkey, her family moved to Dallas when she was only 12 – around the time she began covering. Recently Turkey, in what seems to me an antithetical act against the countries deep and rich Islamic history, has banned women from attending school, college, or a job in a headscarf. Elif, therefore, considers herself very lucky to have been able to obtain a first-class, American education, dressed as a Muslim woman. “In a way,” she notes, “my work is my way of giving back to the community, and reaching out to those who want to cover but are reluctant or hesitant to.”

Initially, Elif graduated with a Business Adminstration degree from the University of Texas at Dallas. Although this has no doubt helped her in starting her own business, it was not what she wanted. She was always a fashion guru and never gave up her hope of becoming a fashion designer. In 2001, married and with a young family, Elif began classes in fashion design. Over a period of 8 years, she has successfully graduated and launched her own line of clothing: Kavakci Couture. When I asked her how she manages a young family and her dedication to her work, she admits that “it’s tough.” “I am a Type A personality and so I like everything done in perfection, which makes it a little hard. I couldn’t have done it without my parents,” she says, who have helped immensely with taking care of her two daughters. “And I get what I put into it. If I put a lot into it, I get a lot out of it.”

Both her parents were professors at prominent universities in Turkey, and her father currently serves as the Imam (or religious leader) to the Islamic Association of Northern Texas. Her older sister, Merve Kavakci, is a Professor of culture and international affairs at George Washington University, and an activist in both human rights and Muslim woman movements. With such an active family background, Elif does not fall short. “My life isn’t on the line here, so I haven’t thought of the ‘business’ side of this. I am more concerned with the Hijab and the status of Muslim women living in America.” She wants Muslim women to be admired for their dress and looked at respectfully; she wants them to be able to enjoy an active and professional life without compromising their religious values, just the way she has.

Below are some pictures from the Kavakci Couture Collection. Photographs are courtesy of Nicole Queen.

Staying in Style

A common response to the question, “Why do you cover like that?” includes “Well, it’s kind of like the way Western women used to dress.” Which is true. Back in the late 1800’s, early 1900’s most women would not even think of going out the way women do now: daisy-duke shorts, skinny jeans that look painted on, and short-hemline dresses with oversized scoop necks.

I was reminded of the forgotten modest dress code of the days afore, two weekends ago, when I visited an antique show held at the Richardson Civic Center. (No, I’m not an antique collector – which kind of put me in an awkward position walking past all those stalls trying to sell you $250 Victorian lace socks and the like – but I did want to see if I could find an unusual item at a bargain price. And, of course, there were the dresses!) Long, beautiful gowns graced the mannequins…something quite distinctive from all those short and skimpy dresses on display this time of the year. And this is just a matter of personal taste, but I would don one of those elegant dresses any day, provided I wouldn’t look absolutely anachronistic. Which brings me to my point: that, indeed, covering a woman’s body is not an outlandish idea, but a concept only made backward by society. As I said, not too long ago, women could not have gotten away with the dress of today; it was unthinkable for a woman to expose herself the way she does now.

So, what makes it right today?

Society’s standards have changed. And it’s something I ponder all that time: does social acceptability change the status of an action from wrong to right or right to wrong? Whether it does theoretically, is debatable, but practically, it does. If the society at large ceases to be concerned with modesty, so does its women – and men. Basically, society imparts its values to its members, as much as it may seem in reverse.

What Islam does for women then – or I should say, society – is provide a basic set of rules that will prevent society from a developing desensitization. The idea of covering, therefore, cannot become anachronistic, or even extremist, as long as it is done in true accordance with the Islamic guidance. Islam merely wishes to safeguard a person’s dignity, and in turn provide stability within the family unit and society at-large…much like what the Western ancestors wished for their society.

The Barbie Doll Turns 50??

I was browsing through some news websites last week and I came across the link ‘Barbie Turns 50’ on the ABC News homepage. Despite the fact that it was pitiful news for a large news network to be featuring, I was drawn to the link…who cared??
I have never owned a Barbie doll, and neither has any one of my friends…at least, close friends. Of course that shouldn’t surprise many, given my conservative background; but I have come across numerous other anti-Barbie fans who are not Muslim or conservative – the most recent being the super model Lauren Hutton in the ABC video. The basic reason: their exaggerated form (and provocative dress at times) establishes an unrealistic standard for girls. Not to say that Barbie must be blamed for makeovers, anorexia, and the like, but why give young girls a toy with shady subliminal messages?
As I said, my family steered clear of that: no Barbie dolls. Not for me, and not for any of my four younger sisters. Instead, we played with Play Mobile. Modestly dressed with forms more conducive to innocent play, my sisters and I built a mini-world around them: from kitchen utensils to bathroom sinks to dresser accessories.
In 2003, the Arab world came up with a Barbie alternative. The name was Fulla. Fulla looks just like Barbie – even down to her figure. But, although her body is similarly shaped, the Fulla Doll is not about her figure. Fulla comes fully covered. Her wardrobe includes a variety of modern wear, but in the “public” she is always wrapped up in her scarf and long coat. In this way, she represents modesty and maintains a sense of Islamic identity, without losing much of her girly and dress-me-up appeal.
I can’t say that I would have owned a Fulla doll had she existed when I was younger, but she has done an impressive job of providing a more wholesome ‘role model’ for little girls.
So, for all those young fashionistas out there who think it’s all about skin, go get a Fulla doll. There’s nothing to lose.

Joining the crowd, and standing out

When I first began this blog, or came up with the idea for it,I thought it was a truly original creation. I was in for a surprise – well, more like a shock: The blogosphere is overflowing with covered fashionistas. Here are some of the ones I came across during my several hour long exploration of all those blogging, covered fashionistas…in no particular order:

Hijabi* Fashionista

We Love Hijab*

Stylish Muslimah

Hijab* Chique

A Piece of Peace

…and the list can go on and on and on. I’ll be sifting through them as I go along, adding them onto my blogroll, but…

How am I going to stand out from this unanticipated crowd?

I would like my blog to be not so much a cyber-closet of ideas for conservative outfits, but more like a journal; making this a kind of diary, where my experiences, thoughts, and revelations come together. This way I don’t limit myself, and I can address issues that come up in my daily life as a covered woman in love with fashion. Whether it is an experience as a covered Muslim girl in the Western world, a random thought on the subject of covering, or a revelation in the assembly of my ever-evolving outfits, my blog will be its host.

*Note: Hijab is the Arabic word for ‘headscarf;’ although that is not its literal translation. Arabic has a way of packing a hundred different meanings into one tiny word, as is the case with the word Hijab. There are numerous translations for this one word, as well as numerous variations of it, aside from the meaning of ‘headscarf’…But for now, that’s all you need to know.